Madrid

 Another early to rise, out the door at 6a to catch a 7a train to Madrid. Spain has a terrific transportation system that by all accounts is on time, and efficient. Tuesday we took the speed train to Madrid, the equivalent distance from Springville, UT to Los Angeles, CA in 2.5 hours. Once out of Barcelona, the train clocked around 295 kph which is 183 mph, although I was expecting to see the landscape in a blur at these speeds, it wasn’t. You really get the sense of an agriculturally based country, with acres of grapes, olive trees, wheat and corn fields, and fruit orchards. Closer to Madrid I noticed fields of sunflowers as well.

We rushed from the train to the metro so that we could get to the Royal Palace in Madrid, at 9a it was already hot in Madrid. Fortunately we had pre-purchased tickets, otherwise we would have been standing in a very long line in the sun. The palace is set on the top of a hill in Madrid overlooking the royal garden, which looks like a forest for all of the trees. The Manzanares river flows just below the gardens. The palace is one of the largest in Western Europe at 135,000 square metres and 3,418 rooms. Thankfully, not all the rooms are viewable or we would need to pack PJs and toothbrush. Below are images of the palace and the courtyard, along with the view from the portico overlooking the garden.

Outside of Palace

Inner courtyard looking toward Palace entrance

View from the Palace courtyard out to the royal garden and park

The first stop was the Royal Armory, unfortunately no photos are allowed, but I found a few images online. The impressive pieces to me were the suits of armor and the armor for the horses bearing the king. To imagine what the size and strength of the horse that must wear that metal plating, along with a man wearing a full suit of armor is unfathomable to me.
 

Oliver Gargan, Royal Palace of Madrid, Wikipedia Commons, Oct 2017

Oliver Gargan, Royal Palace of Madrid, Wikipedia Commons, Oct 2017

 

 

If the armory wasn't impressive enough, the inside is an amazing display of wealth and artistry. Rooms with murals on ceilings, gold leaf, and crystal chandeliers, nothing short of palatial. Below are a few of the rooms that impressed me.

The Grand Staircase that leads from the carriage entrance up the staircase to the palace.

The Gasparini Salon named after the designer, all of the walls are embroidered silk, which has a 3D effect because of the application of the embroidery. The corners of the room ceiling are plaster relief sculptures. It all has a very oriental motif. It served both as a reception room and as a dressing room to Charles III, who took up residence in 1764.

The Porcelain Salon are walls and the ceiling made of porcelain. Made in the royal porcelain factory, truly amazing to see.

 

The throne room

 

The music room, housing the only complete quartet of Stradivarius instruments (two violins, a cello, and a viola). The gifts were offered to King Felipe V in 1702 by Stradivarius, and the only set of decorated instruments that is known to be made from him. Originally it was a quintet, another viola, but both violas were stolen by French troops during the Napoleonic wars, one was recovered, the other remains missing.

We also saw the Spanish crown, extremely large, tough balancing that on one's head.

Following the palace visit, we had a few hours before our scheduled time at the Prada Art Museum. We stopped at the Plaza de Mayor, which was a main market of the town. Today it hosts a Christmas market, bullfights and soccer games. A small fountain is in the middle, and a few cafes. A young man from Africa, who spoke English quite well, tried to con us into buying bracelets, but we didn’t have any cash. That’s something I noticed around Madrid, and the beach in Mareno. A lot of refugees from Africa, selling hats, bracelets, towels, etc. What a hard life to go to a new country, try to learn a new language quickly, so that you can find employment, and earn money.

Plaza de Mayor

Looking for food, we were hangry from no breakfast, we found the Mercado de San Miguel which is a tapas market. Tapas are basically appetizer size plates. In the center of the indoor structure are bar tables, and surrounding that are individual businesses selling tapa size items. There was a BBQ place, hamburgers, fruit/smoothies, cheese, oysters, seafood, olives, empanadas, patatas bravas, bars with liquor/wine, ice cream, and coffee. Once you procure your table by stealth surveillance, you just move around and purchase/sample what you want, bring it back to the table and share. It can get a bit pricey, but it’s fun to try different things and share with everyone. I particularly liked the empanada stuffed with goat cheese, honey and grilled onions. The patata bravas were really good as well.

Mercado de San Miguel

Retiro Park was next to find a place to cool off, we hoped, while waiting for the food to digest and our turn in Prada. Unfortunately not a breeze was stirring in the park, and even in the shade of the trees it felt like 100°. We thought maybe by the lake, nope just as hot. Not our best day walking around in that heat, and not a whole lot of places to go to cool off. 

Retiro Park lake

Retiro Park monument

Street in Madrid near Royal Palace

 

Tired of walking, and of the heat we made our way to the Prado museum. Melting on so many levels, we made our way into the museum. Can I just insert here, that Spain loves stairs. Stairs up to the apartment, stairs in the metro, stairs up to the cathedrals, and up to the museum. If it was 5 stairs, no biggie, but we are talking flights of stairs. 

Prado museum

What bits of Prado we could drag ourselves through was interesting. We saw Titian, Goya, Velazquez, and Rubens. They also have Durer, Raphael, Bosch, Rembrandt and El Greco and so much more. But we were all tired, hot and hungry, just ready to take the train ride back to Barcelona and out of the heat. I wish we had more time and energy to have spent at the museum. I enjoyed some of the paintings they had showing both versions of, one was the first draft along with the final piece. Interesting to compare and contrast the two versions.

Our last meal in Madrid was some of the best pizza and lasagna we’ve had anywhere, the Oven Mozzarella Bar. Highly recommend it if you are in Madrid.

Back to the train for a 3 hour ride, longer this time because the train stops along the way to drop off and pick up. Liesel and I were looking for something to do, so we made a mini playing card set. I had paper from my sketchbook and we enjoyed a game of Donkey. I would say the passengers might think us strange, but fortunately a large family with 3 little kids made the most noise. We arrived back in Barcelona around 11.30p, as usual exhausted.

Madrid train station

Tarragona

Tarragona on Monday, a lovely city on the Mediterranean south west of Barcelona, founded before 1400 BC. During the Roman Republic the city was fortified and much enlarged as a Roman colony. At this time it was converted to a fortress and arsenal.

It was around an hour long train ride from Barcelona to Tarragona, on the Refe train line. Jody was the guide for the day, so that meant an early train 8a, with many grumbling about the early rising. I was pleasantly surprised by how clean the Metro station, train station and trains were. Barcelona does a fantastic job of keeping things clean. Most everyone had missed breakfast so a quick bit at the Tarragona train station cafe before we started.

First stop, after climbing up the hill to the city, was an overlook view of the Playa El Miracle beach.

Roman Amphitheater

The Roman Amphitheater, unfortunately like the states, Monday museums are closed. But they had several views from above, and we were able to get an idea of what it looked like. Interesting to note that the crowd had their backs to the ocean.

Did I mention that Tarragona is on a hill? Between the Metro flights of stairs, train stations and cities up on hills, the stair step function on the health app is going off the charts. It’s whipping us all.

Homes within the original fortress city, a plaza to the right

From the amphitheater we headed further into town to visit the Catedral Basílica Metropolitana y Primada de Santa Tecla. The Cathedral was built in 1154 AD, but updated in 1195, 1277, and 1375 AD. Interestingly traces of a temple dedicated to the Roman emperor Augustus were found under the nave.

Main aisle of cathedral

Stained glass over door entry

Small chapel

Fresco paintings

Rotunda in main aisle

Organ

Rotunda in smaller chapel

Cloisters

Everyone was anxious to hit the beach, so by a long circuitous route we ended up on the beach. We hoped for food options along the beach, but after reaching it, realized that the eating was up on the hill with the town. One option available, a shack providing snacks, sandwiches and beer. Unfortunately, Señora no habla Español, so Suzy habla Español muy mal. I hacked my way through it and only ended up with 2 bags of chips that I thought was originally a tortilla with potatoes for Liesel, then thought they were a part of the sandwich meal, but really were just 2 euros each. Liesel did get her sandwich, and it was fried potatoes with fresh squeezed tomato juice and a drizzle of olive oil, on a baguette. Man I’m working too hard for someone else’s lunch.

Playa El Miracle

Lunch done, we changed into our suits and found an empty spot on the sand. Liesel and Jody attempted to body surf. Sabrina and Chris just bobbed around in the water. I waded out a ways, but returned back to our towels to do some sketching. Such an interesting place to people watch/draw. Some of you may have spent time on a European beach, you’ll understand that for some, tan lines are simply not acceptable. Plenty of characters to watch, or try not to watch. A favorite of that beach, based on the darkness of the tan, was a lady in her late 50s–60s, who spent her time at the beach walking from one end to the beach to the other and back again, along the water line. We applauded her goals to keep fit and active, but couldn’t say more about her, because there wasn’t much left to say or perhaps too much, if you catch my drift.

Our hunger for a good meal, and a train to depart soon back to Barcelona, ended our first day at the beach. We showered off, and walked to the train station to change. Then headed back up the hill to partake of dinner. We had fish dinners, fish soup/gazpacho, and Catalayn Cream pie. Back down the hill to catch a train, through the Metro to home. Simply exhausted.

Barcelona 2021

 After 17 months of COVID hibernation, Chris, Jody, Sabrina, Liesel and I fled to the only country, Spain, open to Americans with their vaccinations, destination Barcelona.

The trip started with a 4 hour drive to St. George, odd I know, but the cheap tickets started there. We stayed overnight at the Chalet Inn, quintessential mom and pop motel. The St George airport, is new, small, and TSA had no line. What a change from SLC, which we flew into the new terminal. I don't remember ever seeing SLC quite as busy, nor as international. The new terminal must have changed Delta's stops with the new terminal, which explains the more international crowd.With a 3 hour layover, we enjoyed a food meal and roamed around to see the new terminal.

Our flight for Amsterdam was a bit delayed with a mechanical issue, but we got off soon. Every time I spend 8+ hrs on an ocean crossing flight I tell myself, next time it's first class. I wish it had been first class this time, 9 hrs 15 min in one spot, with minimal movement, torture. It is always interesting to me to spend that amount of time crossing an ocean and several time zones, only to arrive without the sun setting. 

I just want to make note of the airplane food, Liesel had the vegetarian diet, her breakfast was a bagel. This bagel was an understatement of the term "day old", it was petrified, literally. Liesel whacked it on the table, and a decided thumping sound rang out through the cabin. Liesel even tried to muscle it, didn't budge. Breakfast of champions, Olympic champions.

Amsterdam, for most was a quick peek through the windows. By time we landed and made it through immigration there was only time for a visit to the loo, before getting back on a plane to Barcelona.

Welcome to sunny Barcelona! It took a few minutes to find a taxi large enough for 5 people with luggage. Most taxis are Honda Prius, so large families with lots of stuff, not the usual. First impressions, old meets new. A lot of turn of the century (1900) buildings mixed with more modern. Highways and freeways are well maintained and worked with alternate transportation options, ie bike lane, and bus lanes. The city seems fairly clean, and well maintained. Hard to tell between the visitors and the locals at times, but a lot of people pulling luggage.

We found our way to the business that manages the Air BnB we are staying in, we had to circle around the block for 40 min while waiting for key access to kick in. Another taxi to the Air BnB, and it's lovely, 2nd story of a remodeled older building. The furnishings are strait out of a shopping trip to IKEA. We have 4 bedrooms and 3 baths, decent kitchen, dining table, small living space, and laundry room. Small balcony along one bedroom and living space, along with enclosed balcony areas off of 2 bedrooms, looking over the neighbors courtyards and pool. I can hear the rumble of the Metro as it rumbles down below us, neighbors playing opera and I feel like I'm in some movie.

A quick power nap and we walked down to the Plaza Catalunya, where those we assume from Kasmir, based on the flag waving, were having a smaller peaceful rally of some sort. The plaza area was full of vacationers and those looking to end their weekend with good food, and friends. We found a metro station at the plaza, decided to check it out and get metro passes for Monday. An older man came up to us, dressed in a dress shirt and tie, and attempted to explain to us in his broken english and my broken Spanish how to buy a ticket. It took a couple of rounds, and he was certainly agitated in our stupidity. But once we had what we needed, he let us know he was out of work and felt his kindness should be repaid. Unfortunately we only had a credit card, and nothing to give him. Hopefully his needs will be met by the Lord. 

The food around our area is predominantly american, Taco Bell, McDonald's, Starbucks, a burrito (akin to Cafe Rio) and KFC. Most places were closed, either because it was Sunday or August being the month to vacation in Europe. We opted for the burrito place, we weren't disappointed it was good. We rounded out the evening with a quick popover to the block Supermercado (open 24 hrs) for a few essentials.

All are exhausted and showered and headed to bed. Hasta mañana!

Day 1 and 2: Why does it take 2 days to get to Israel by plane?

Day 1 (Oct 3):

I left home at 7a, to drive Herriman, drop off shoes for Dorothy and get to Dad's. Dad, Janis and I left their home around 8.45a for the airport. We left SLC to JFK at 11a and arrived at 5.30p, it's a 2 hour time difference and a 4 hour flight. Our flight for Tel Aviv left at 11.25p, so what do you do in JFK for 6 hours? Eat, walk, sit, walk some more, watch people nap, draw people napping. WAIT. Board the plane (Air France), and get a happy surprise that you have the entire row of 4 seats to yourself!!

Day 2 (Oct 4):

Try to sleep on plane, toss, turn, keep seatbelt on, toss, turn. Give up. Watch movies. Arrive in Tel Aviv at 5.10p. So yes it does take 2 days of your vacation to get to Israel from SLC, might be the 9 hour difference too. But why can't every plane be a Concord!!

Really nice airport, lots of stone, modern/antiquities vibe. Look at all of those balloons that never left the airport? First time I've noticed balloons on the ceiling of an airport.

We passed through the usual customs, collected the baggage and made our way to the buses. We scored and got Maqmoud again! I totally remember him from the 2007 trip. Hasn't changed much, just a little more grey. Saddle up let's go, I'm hungry, stinky, and really tired. We still needed to travel from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem. Tel Aviv on the left side of the map, and Jerusalem on the bottom right, just follow the blue road. Truthfully I think it only took a couple of hours.

We arrived in the dark at our hotel The Olive Tree, same place as 2007, nothing has changed. We dumped our stuff and headed to dinner, chicken, couscous, lots of fresh tomato and cucumber salads, hummus, green salad, and pita. To our rooms for a good night sleep. But before I snuggle down into my stiff as a board bed with no memory foam (!!!!), I had to sketch something for Inktober.

Yes, it's my luggage on a rack. It's dark outside, and all I can see is the other side of the hotel, my eyes are bleary from lack of sleep. I think it kind of looks like a humanoid with 2 eyes, stache, mouth, t-rex legs on a directors chair. Yes, I'm tired don't judge me.

Another adventure begins

... and so starts the packing.

This time I'm off to Israel and Jordan, round 2. Always said I would go again if I had a chance, and it's been 12 yrs since. I'm looking forward to seeing it all again, but with a little more thought this time.

Day 19 - The Fatherland

Today Grandpa and I began our journey back in time to where Papa Chris was born and spent the first few years of his life before immigrating. As we made our way from Lviv, the city faded away into a very rural agricultural area. The land is flat with only a few rolling hills now and then. We saw fields of corn, wheat and hay. As we got closer to Bolechiv the trees became thicker and hills, valleys and rivers more apparent.

As we traveled we went through many villages and towns, all had their onion domed churches shining in the sun. The church roofs are covered in reflective metal sheeting, quite the sparkling effect. Every town had 3 things, the church, a small grocery store and a bus stop. All day we passed buses, small and large shuttling people from the little villages and towns to the bigger ones. Men, women, teenagers, mothers with strollers and children bumping along in crowded buses headed to get what they needed.

And boy were those roads bumpy!!! Once we got off the 4 lane road and onto the 2 lane road it was unbelievable. There were potholes that a small car could get lost in, roads that had been stripped for new asphalt but never completed. So we crawled along trying to not lose the transmission along with the buses, and 8-wheeler trucks. When we weren't bumping along we were busy playing kamikaze on the 2 lane roads. Here you can pass a car or two anytime you want, and if in the process of passing you just can't get over in time, no problem. The 2 lane road turns into a 3 lane and you just drive down the center. Hopefully you won't get the big rig squeeze.  I forgot to mention that you also share the road with bikes, horse drawn wagons, and ladies herding cows down the road. It all makes for a interesting drive, one which is hard to get drowsy on.

We survived the bladder busting roads and made it to Bolechiv. The town sits in a valley with a little river running through the middle of the town. There's a church down at the edge of downtown and many little shops along the main drag. It was a busy afternoon and everyone was out shopping. Kids were playing in the city park and a trailer full of squeling pigs flew past me. The houses are small and fairly old. Everyone had a garden, including the shops. The men were chatting with a beer in their hands or smoking, the women were bustling around getting their shopping done and the kids were riding bikes or playing in the park. All a very typical scene. After walking around a bit we had seen it all. Nothing as we imagined but what I had in my head was about a 100 years ago.

We tried to find the town where the church was but mistook one that we were in, later Grandpa looked at a map and realized the error but it was a little town and everyone starred at us as we drove in and took some pictures.

We stopped in Stryi for lunch and took a gamble on potato pancakes with chicken and mushrooms. It was fantastic!

After lunch Grandpa wanted to head to the Carpathian Mountains but we realized after awhile that we had missed the turn off in Stryi somewhere and headed in the wrong direction. Tired, hot, and really hating the pothole filled roads we headed back to Lviv and our hotel.

We rounded out the day by watching on YouTube a 1965 movie with Yul Brynner and Tony Curtis about the Ukrainian Cossacks and the Polish empire.

Day 18 - We Are Definitely Not In Kansas Anymore

We flew to Lviv, Ukraine without a hitch, the tornado trip was good, served with a chocolate croissant and chocolate muesli.

The airport is new and clean, we went to the car rental and everyone spoke English, terrific! Grandpa handed me the partially printed google map, the car guy in broken English kind of explained the way with a promise a map was in the car. Ok here we go, how do we get out of the parking lot? First problem, manual shift, grandpa is a bit out of practice. Second problem, no visible street signs. Third problem, crazy drivers!! So we managed to get lost first try, double back to airport then Grandpa says the map is in glove compartment, well a third of it is. We go back inside airport to our new friends, they laugh, ok it is funny. Then manager asks if we want GPS, heck yes!! Find new map, doesn't cover hotel, fine we have Oz to tell us where to go. Try this again, only had to turn around twice this time. Hurray we found the Emerald City, aka hotel. And they speak English, mostly! Next adventure.

It comes at lunch, the hotel has a restaurant and we are the only ones dining or only ones in hotel, not sure. We ordered borscht, good Russian soup, but not enough for the day. So I spot sandwiches, I thought, not so it is slices of meat on a plate. Ok that works, some bread too please. Bread comes first, ok, wait wait, now meat. Hmm interesting, turns out bacon to ukraines is just the pig fat, thanks Grandpa for trying that! Not sure about others but seems ok, maybe. Then the borscht comes and a side of mustard please. Ok time to leave the safety of Emerald Ciry and explore.

We had a taxi take us to the city center, no seatbelts, car looks part of demolition derby. I want a refund on my ruby slippers please. Start your engines, aaaaaahhhhhhhh!!!!!!! Crazy Ukraine drivers! We arrived safely but only because we got caught behind a bus. Now we try my Ukrainian skills, da and nyet (yes and no). Lots of souvenirs and by the time we circle around I'm noticing that they all look the same, great probably made in china. Surprise here are your presents!! Ice cream was partaken of, not as good as Europe, kind of like the chocolate. Now to find another taxi and maybe get back in one piece.

The end of a day and the first of many adventures I'm sure.